Christmas in Florence & stunning Richard Ginori Italian designer porcelain

Determined to embrace the magic of an Italian Christmas in our new home city of Florence, we resisted the familiar pull of flights back to family. It wasn’t the easy choice – most of the international families we know from our daughter’s school had scattered across the globe: the USA, Germany, China… anywhere but here. Had our daughter been fluent in Italian, we might have chosen the local schools and perhaps cultivated a closer circle of native friends. But here we were, charting our own festive course.

Despite the quiet streets and a noticeable lack of familiar faces, we uncovered a gem for Christmas Day – The Place Hotel & Restaurant – a spot that promised traditional Tuscan flavours paired with an exceptional wine list. Cost per head 80 euros, which is as much as we would have spent on a big family Christmas dinner in the UK, but without the hassle and preparation required.

The Place Hotel & Restaurant where we indulged in Christmas lunch

After breads, cold pressed extra virgin olive oil and 'squisito' balsamic vinegar, the starters arrive

Only in Italy would you be gifted the restaurant menu as a scroll with beautifully branded ribbon and swish paper bag.

Nice detail

The Menu, which I took with me with permission - and ambition to give this a go at home!

The starters set the tone, arriving with elegance and Tuscan flair. The menu itself was so captivating that I smuggled it home, determined to recreate the experience (though its off-centre typography on the last line tested my patience).

Four courses in, delightfully sated, we rounded things off with espresso – naturally. (A cappuccino after noon? That’s practically a crime in Italy.) As the coffee was served, my attention drifted to the exquisite chinaware cradling it. A closer look revealed a name that carries centuries of Florentine craftsmanship: Richard Ginori, established in 1735 by the Marquis Carlo Andrea Ginori.

Pretty and elegant porcelain 'tazza' - cup

Con zucchero, per favore

Had to make further enquiries as love this design

Richard Ginori, CONTESSA range

The cups – part of the Contessa range – were effortlessly elegant and undeniably festive, as though one of the Three Wise Men had been transformed into porcelain form. Yet their price tag was sobering: a set for two commands a cool €660. The sort of indulgence one admires from afar, unless your kitchen cupboard is feeling particularly underdressed.

It was only then I remembered I’d once been invited to tour the Ginori factory. I declined at the time, caught up in the chaos of settling in. Now I regretted it, though perhaps my wallet thanks me for steering clear of that trip. https://bellini.shop/prodotto/catene-indaco-tazza-caffe-con-piatto-e-coperchio-set-per-due-forma-impero/ 

Photo is taken from the website. It is quite a magestic style and very Christmassy I think... Like one of the three wise men but in tazzo form :)

On Boxing Day, curiosity led me to the Ginori store, but it was too early and the shutters were firmly down. I made do with some wistful window shopping, snapping photos of their oriental-inspired designs, which I think is a nod to Blue Willow patterns from China. It was all so enchanting, from delicate cups to grand tableware, each piece calling out to take pride of place in a Tuscan home, read: MY home.

Very oriental Richard Ginori cups – I think it is inspired by the Blue Willow ware from China

Lovely stuff

Can imagine all of this Ginori ware adorning our kitchen cupboard

As for the wine, Tuscany never disappoints! At The Place, we toasted the day with a fine white, perfectly paired with the region’s festive fare, having enjoyed a sparkling Prosecco chaser beforehand.

Safe to say that our Christmas in Florence was exactly as it should have been: a celebration of culture, craftsmanship, and cuisine. No shortcuts, no compromises, just an unforgettable Italian experience with some very special food, wine, ambience and ceramics to appreciate!

One of the Tuscan wines we enjoyed at The Place on Christmas Day, after a Prosecco chaser. Un Vino bianco da Toscana

Meanwhile, at home, our cat Bastet (Bustess) reigns over her realm, with our decorations bought at the Santa Croce German Christmas market and COOP in nearby Scandicci.

Why sit in my basket when I can put my furry ass on the table and force my clean-freak owner to change the linen, again?

The Italians enjoy Panforte at Christmas, which is something I have never tasted before but am now hooked on. Il panforte è un dolce tipico di Siena, a base di mandorle e frutta candita viene gustato soprattutto nel periodo di Natale. Panforte is a typical dessert from Siena, made with almonds and candied fruit and is enjoyed especially during the Christmas period.

Masquarading as Brie, but very fruity, nutty and sweet

One thin slice is never enough

I noticed that the Christmas decorations are still up in and around Florence and other villages in the area. Seems that 06th January isn't the cut off date here, as it is in the UK.

A random wreath I photographed when visiting San Gimignano with my in-laws, last week

Apologies to vegetarians and vegans, this is how they sometimes dress shop fronts here at Christmas

Cute decoration which I think is a baby Italian cypress tree. It smells lovely and was a cheerful table decoration

Another one for good measure! Both baby trees are now free of decorations and in the garden, growing

Here they are without decorations on them. Back in the open air with well nourished soil, as is the Christmas tree (with roots) that we bought

Christmas isn't Christmas without board games. We braved the Tuscan version of Monopoly and Whatsapped the family when back home from our posh Christmas lunch

Managed to find a local outlet for Christmas trees. The one we bought has roots and was 145 euros (at a discounted rate) Ample panettones and other delights are under tree, including choccy of course

A wonderfully phallic Christmas decoration placed outside on the pavement near the bakery

Christmas here is great, though I missed having our boxes of decorations from the UK and the traditional turkey roast and trimmings this year, we made up for it with the exquisite Tuscan cuisine, wines and the festive warm and welcoming atmosphere. Life in Florence really is sweet and seeing the in-laws later on at New Year, completed 2024 perfectly!